When I was in grade school, there was exactly one boy (let’s call him Jerome) in our school who had a food allergy (to peanuts). Jerome was already a bit too large (he towered over the rest of us; even in grade three, he was already level with our teacher, Mrs. B’s shoulders); a bit too goofy (he had one of those snorty-hiccuping laughs, sounding slightly porcine and aquatic at the same time); and a bit too fleshy, with excess skin seeming to hang from his waistband and cheeks, his complexion as white and matte as newly painted classrooms after summer break.
I always felt sorry for him. Even though he sometimes played the class clown out in the school yard, I never saw him smiling around food. He carried his dietary restrictions around like a backpack full of rocks–at once too heavy, yet requiring great attention to avoid causing injury–while the rest of us flaunted our peanut butter and jelly sandwiches for lunch.
When I first began the Anti-Candida Diet (ACD) in earnest in March, 2009, I felt a long-lost connection to poor Jerome. After all, not only did I have to eschew peanuts, but also gluten, most sweeteners, yeasts, alcohol and all moldy foods as well. No, I won’t be eating any PB&J sandwiches in the foreseeable future. And yet, after three years on the diet, I no longer feel like I’m missing out on very much (the one exception is social occasions–when we’re invited to someone’s house for dinner, or to a major event like a wedding or bar mitzvah; the industrial kitchens seem to have a tough time producing something I can eat that also tastes good). I’ve more or less accepted that this will be my diet for the rest of my life, and I don’t mind cooking my own foods. I’ve discovered that, if you keep an open mind, there’s an infinite number of new food combinations and flavors to try, even on a restricted diet.
(“It’s true, Mum–we don’t think of our diet as restricted, either, even without chocolate! We happen to love the combination of apple, cauliflower and salmon blended together in the food processor.”)
In fact, for me it’s become a kind of game, a little personal challenge whenever I spy something that looks delicious but which I’m not supposed to eat: how can I recreate that dish in a way that’s ACD-friendly? When I saw Cara’s Caramelized Onion, Shaved Butternut and Goat Cheese Pizza over on the Clean Eating webiste, I knew immediately that I’d have to reproduce it–or, at least, an allergy-friendly, low glycemic, ACD-approved version of it. I saved the recipe on Pinterest (so much more fun than bookmarking!) and thought about what I’d change.
I ended up tweaking my own Grain-Free Pizza Crust to make it not only grain-free but also starch-free; used this goat “cheese” instead of the dairy-based one; and concocted an ACD-friendly version of the condensed balsamic that worked beautifully. The HH (who, by the way, has no food allergies and can eat whatever he wants in whatever quantities he wants–don’t you just hate him?) went bonkers over this pizza. I think he wants Cara to come live with us now.
The pizza features thinly sliced, deeply browned onions, slow-cooked until sweet and languorous. They’re topped with shaved squash that’s wilted and beginning to curl at the edges, accented with crisp, toasty pumpkinseeds and bitter greens, all accented with dollops of tart, creamy goat “cheese.”
Savoring a big slice of this pizza, I felt completely happy, sated and even somewhat spoiled by the perfect symphony of flavors, colors and textures on my plate. In other words, it was the very antithesis of a “restricted” meal. Now, if only I could invite Jerome to join us. I’m sure this pizza would make him smile aound his food, after all.
Cara’s Caramelized Onion, Shaved Butternut and “Goat Cheese” Pizza, Anti-Candida Friendly (grain-free, dairy-free, sugar-free, vegan); Suitable for ACD Stage 2 and beyond.
The toppings on this pizza would work beautifully on any crust. If you don’t wish to eat a grain-free crust or if you can consume gluten, go ahead and use a store-bought crust to speed the process.
For the Crust:
1 can (19 oz or 540 ml) white kidney or navy beans, rinsed well and drained (about 2 cups/480 ml)
1/4 cup (60 ml) extra virgin olive oil, preferably organic, plus about 1 Tbsp (15 ml) extra
1/2 cup (120 ml) unsweetened plain soymilk or almond milk
1 tsp (5 ml) dried basil, optional (omit if you’ll be topping with sweet ingredients)
For the Toppings:
1 Tbsp (15 ml) extra virgin olive oil, preferably organic
1 large yellow onion, thinly sliced
1/4-1/2 cup (60-120 ml) vegetable broth or stock
225 g (4 oz) peeled and shaved (with a vegetable peeler) butternut squash (about 1/4 of a sqash–I just did the thin neck part)
1/2 recipe this goat “cheese” (omit peppercorns; the remainder is great on muffins, toast, etc.)
2 cups (480 ml) thinly sliced chard or kale
2 Tbsp (30 ml) raw or lightly toasted pumpkin seeds
For the Balsamic Drizzle (ACD Stage 3 or beyond; for ACD Stage 2, see variation below):
1/4 cup (60 ml) balsamic vinegar
1/4 cup (60 ml) apple cider vinegar
5 drops plain stevia liquid
Make the crust: Preheat oven to 375F (190C). Line a large pizza pan with parchment, or spray with nonstick spray.
In the bowl of a food processor, process the beans and 1/4 cup (60 ml) oil until relatively smooth. Add the soymilk, stevia, vinegar, coconut flour, psyllium, garfava flour, buckwheat flour, baking soda, baking powder, salt and basil and process again until the mixture comes together in a ball. Do not overprocess!
Take the ball of dough and, using your hands, pull of chunks the size of baseballs and distribute them evenly over the pizza pan. Use the final 1 Tbsp (15 ml) of oil to grease your palms and fingertips; then press the dough evenly in the pan until all the chunks come together in a single crust. Keep greasing your hands as necessary to avoid sticking. If desired, make a slight rim all around the edge of the dough. (Instead of using the extra oil, you can also wet your palms to prevent sticking while you press out the dough, but if you apply a tomato-based sauce to the pizza, it’s more likely to remain moist in that case).
Bake in preheated oven 35-45 minutes, until the crust is dry and lightly browned on the edges and bottom (if you underbake at this stage, the inside of the dough will remain moist after the toppings have been added). Top with desired toppings, then return to the oven for another 25-35 minutes, until heated throughout and toppings are cooked. Slice and serve. Makes 4-6 servings. May be frozen. To freeze, wrap slices individually in plastic and freeze until solid, then store in a ziploc bag.
While the crust bakes, make the toppings: heat oil over medium-low heat and add the onion. Cook, stirring frequently, until onion is translucent, 5-7 minutes. Add 1/4 cup (60 ml) broth and cover the pan. Allow to cook another 20-25 minutes, stirring frequently, until the liquid has evaporated and the onions are soft and golden. If the onion sticks to the pan, add more broth as needed. Set aside.
Once the dough is ready, remove it from the oven and increase the heat to 450F ( C). Spread the onions evenly over the crust. Top with the greens, then the shaved squash. Scatter dollops of cheese over the top and sprinkle with the pumpkin seeds. Bake for 15-20 minutes, until the greens and squash are wilted and the cheese has begun to brown a bit.
While the pizza bakes, make the drizzle: Combine the balsamic vinegar, apple cider vinegar and stevia in a small pot and bring to the boil. Lower heat to medium-low and cook until reduced to about 1/4 cup (60 ml), about 5 minutes. Remove pizza from the oven and drizzle with the vinegar. Serve immediately. Makes 4-6 servings. May be frozen. To freeze, wrap slices individually in plastic and freeze until solid, then store in a ziploc bag.
For ACD Stage 2, use this vinegar drizzle instead: Replace the balsamic with unsweetened cranberry juice and increase the stevia to 10 drops instead of 5. Prepare as described above.
Dealing with all the exigencies of the anti candida diet (ACD) can really be a challenge. After more than a year without sugars (sniff, boo hoo), most fruits (miss ya, mangoes!), gluten (you were overrated anyway), yeasts (nooch! nooch!), fungi (bye, bye, portobello steaks) or anything else fermented (thank God you can get black olives cured in oil), I’ve often found that turning to raw foods is a fairly easy way to ensure compliance.
Apart from raw desserts (which tend to rely on dates and other fruits), it’s pretty simple to stick to the ACD guidelines by choosing from the living foods menu, as it already eliminates most sweeteners and most grains or grain products (and, let’s face it, most of us on the ACD probably got there by overdoing it on the sweets and grains).
As a result, I was particularly delighted that the folks at Book Publishing Company sent me a copy of the latest in the “Becoming” series of books by Brenda Davis and Vesanto Melina, Becoming Raw: The Essential Guide to Raw Vegan Diets. I already own the other two books (Becoming Vegetarianand Becoming Vegan), so I knew I was in for a treat with this new tome as well. (The publisher provided a complimentary copy of the book for review. To view this blog’s entire disclosure policy, click here).
Like its predecessors, this newest volume is brimming with useful and often fascinating information, covering virtually every detail you’ll need to know if you’re contemplating a switch to a raw, plant-based diet. In her review, Alisa called the book (at 376 pages) a “dense read.” And while it does, indeed, offer a plethora of statistics, charts, tables, definitions and other details, I must admit that this is just the kind of extensive and comprehensive information–all backed by solid scientific research–that I enjoy reading (and which fans have come to expect from this duo of nutritionists). As a reference book, Becoming Raw provides a sturdy basis on which to transition to a raw vegan diet.
The introductory chapter, “Becoming Raw for Life,” addresses some of the typical questions and concerns associated with embracing a raw foods diet. For instance, can one obtain enough protein on a raw regime? What about cooked foods? Right from the outset, the authors’ approach to the topic is open minded and eschews any too-rigid stance (they argue that cooked foods are not necessarily a bad thing, even though an entirely raw diet may be perfectly healthy for some people).
They also offer a comprehensive history of the raw foods movement from the pioneers to the current icons, including the many illnesses that see improvement on a raw diet. From rheumatoid arthritis to cardiovascular disease, diabetes, obesity and many more, a raw food diet appears to offer benefits in preventing and treating these conditions. The authors also present abundant information about plant chemicals and compounds (such as antioxidants) that can benefit health, as well as some of the problems with cooked food (such as acrylamide, a byproduct of heating most starchy foods).
The subsequent chapters about macronutrients (proteins, carbs and fats) and micronutrients (vitamins and minerals) could easily rival those in texts I studied while in nutrition school for their breadth and detailed explanations of how these nutrients function in the body, why we need them, and how much to ingest for optimal health.
The chapter on carbohydrates, for instance, provides a thorough definition of the glycemic index (GI), glycemic load, and an explanation of why some foods with a higher GI may nevertheless be a better choice for their ultimate effect on blood sugar levels (crucial for someone like moi who follows an ACD). They point out, “watermelon has a glycemic index of 72, which is very high (higher than white bread or white sugar).” On the other hand, “a 3.5 ounce (100 gram) serving of watermelon provides only 8 grams of carbohydrate. In order to get the blood glucose results predicted by the glycemic index, a person would need to eat about 6.25 servings, or 22 ounces (625 grams) of watermelon.” Does this suggest, I wondered, that raw fruits would actually be acceptable on the ACD, even if they’re sweet? For now, I’m sticking with the original diet, but this fact is definitely intriguing.
Finally, the authors devote an entire chapter to “The Great Enzyme Controversy,” addressing theories and research about whether or not enzymes in raw foods are essential and account for the health-promoting benefits of these foods. (I won’t reveal their final conclusion, but will let you read the ultimate results on your own.)
Concluding true to its subtitle as an “essential guide,” the book wraps up with suggested menus and enough recipes in each category (juices, breakfast foods, soups, salads, main dishes, desserts) to get you started on your own raw regimen. The two recipes I sampled (Green Giant Juice and Zucchini Linguine with Bolognese Sauce) were superb. For more recipes from the book, check Alisa’s review and Lisa’s series about the book, which begins here.
Becoming Raw is an excellent resource that clarifies and demystifes the raw vegan diet. As with their previous best selling books, Davis and Melina can help to direct you on a path toward a plant-based, raw lifestyle in a way that’s informed, intelligent, and health-promoting.
Celeriac (or Zucchini) Linguine with Bolognese Sauce and Hemp Parmesan (plus myACD-friendly version)
While the list of ingredients may seem daunting, you can prepare the seed mix and hemp parmesan in advance, and the dish can later be assembled very quickly. Incredibly satisfying and every bit as filling as meat-based pasta, this multi-layered dish provides an impressive 21 grams of protein, 17 g of dietary fiber, and 277 mg of calcium per serving. I used zucchini as my grocer was out of celeriac, but I’m sure the celery root would be equally delectable. My ACD-based changes follow.
Tomato Sauce (makes about 4 cups/1 liter):
20 sundried tomato halves or pieces, soaked for 6-24 hours in 1-2/3 cups (414 ml) water
5 pitted medjool dates, or 10 pitted regular dates, soaked for 6-24 hours in 1/3 cup (80 ml) water
1/4 red onion, chopped
1 Tbsp (15 ml) dried oregano
1 clove garlic, minced
2 tomatoes, chopped
1 cup (250 ml) grated carrots
Seed Mix (makes about 2 cups/500 ml):
1/2 cup (125 ml) shredded carrot
1/2 cup (125 ml) chopped fresh parsley
1/2 cup (125 ml) sunflower seeds, soaked for 1 hour, drained and rinsed
2-4 Tbsp (30-60 ml) Nama shoyu or tamari (soy sauce)
2 Tbsp (30 ml) freshly squeezed lemon juice or apple cider vinegar
1 Tbsp (15 ml) miso
1/4 cup (60 ml) sesame seeds, soaked for 1 hour, drained and rinsed
1/4 cup (60 ml) hempseeds
Celeriac Linguine (makes 8 cups/2 liters):
8 cups (2 liters) shredded celeriac or zucchini (spiralized, julienned witha mandolin, or grated)
2 Tbsp (30 ml) extra virgin olive oil
juice of 1/2 lemon
Hemp Parmesan (makes 1/4 cup/60 ml):
2 Tbsp (30 ml) hempseeds
2 Tbsp (30 ml) nutritional yeast flakes
1/8 tsp (3/4 ml) salt
To make the tomato sauce, put the sundried tomaotes and their soaking water in a food processor or blender. Add the dates and their soaking water. Then add the onion, oregano, and garlic. Process until smooth. Transfer to a bowl. Stir in the fresh tomatoes and carrots.
To make the Seed Mix, put the carrot, parsley, sunflower seeds, pumpkin seeds, Nama Shoyu, lemon juice, and miso in a food processor. Process until smooth. Add the sesame seeds and hempseeds. Pulse until evenly mixed. Stored in a sealed container in the refrigerator, the Seed Mix will keep for 3 days.
Alternately, spread the Seed Mix on a dehydrator tray with a nonstick sheet. Dehydrate at 115 degrees F (46 C) for 3 hours. Crumble with your fingers. Serve warm or store in the refrigerator.
To make the Celeriac Linguine, combine allt he ingredients in a large bowl. Toss until evenly mixed. Cover and refrigerate until serving time, up to 4 hours.
Tip: To keep the shredded celeriac moist while preparing the remainder of the recipe, sprinkle it with a little water so it does not dry out.
To make the Hemp Parmesan, combine all the ingredients in a small bowl. Stir until evenly mixed. Stored in a sealed container in the refrigerator, Hemp Parmesan will keep for 1 month.
Assemble lthe finished dish just before serving. For each serving, arrange 2 cups (500 ml) of hte Celeriac Linguine on a plate. Combine the Tomato Sauce and the Seed Mix to create the Bolognese Sauce and stir gently[I folded gently so that the seed mix retained some of its own texture scattered throughout the sauce] . Top each serving with about 1-1/2 cups (375 ml) of the Bolognese Sauce. Sprinkle with about 1 Tbsp (15 ml) of the Hemp Parmesan. Makes 4 hearty servings.
ACD-Friendly Variation (Phase I and beyond):
I followed the original recipe as written, except for these changes:
For the Tomato Sauce: use 2 pints (about 500 ml) grape tomatoes instead of the sundried tomatoes. Remove 1 cup/240 ml (20-30 tomatoes) and cut in half; reserve for later. Preheat oven to 325F (170C) and place the remainder of the tomatoes on a cookie sheet lined with parchment. Bake until the tomatoes begin to dry out and wrinkle a bit, 40-50 minutes. Allow to cool slightly. Use the baked tomatoes in place of the sundried tomatoes, and the reserved (chopped) tomatoes in place of the 2 chopped tomatoes in the original recipe; do not add any extra water (as in the original recipe), unless necessary to achieve a sauce-like texture.
Omit the dates and use 10-20 drops of stevia instead (adjust to your taste, and based on how sweet your baked tomatoes are). Do not add extra water, as in the original recipe. I also added 2 tsp (10 ml) dried basil to the sauce.
For the Hemp Parmesan: Omit the nutritional yeast and use 2 Tbsp (30 ml) pine nuts instead.
By now you’ve no doubt heard about the hefty tome penned by seasoned cookbook author Joni Marie Newman and blogger extraordinaire Celine Steen, 500 Vegan Recipes. I mean it when I say this book is massive–at 512 pages and almost 2 pounds (900 grams), it weighs almost as much as I do (okay, I flatter myself; but I’m still adusting to this no-longer-obese me!).
Just the first in a series of cookbooks, this includes-everything volume covers all the bases: from an introduction on “What is a Vegan Diet?” (and why you should adopt one!) to chapters on every conceivable course and dish, to an extensive Resources section and full index, you’ll find it all (or, at least, a variation of it) in these pages.
As an avid follower of Celine and Joni’s blogs, I couldn’t wait to order my book from amazon. I had some initial concerns that I might not be able to make many of the recipes given my ACD status; after all, Celine is famed as a baker, and I am not currently using many conventional baking ingredients in my menus (such as sugars, glutenous flours, dried fruits, yeast, or many nuts). Add to that my dietary restrictions in general–no processed, refined, etc.–and I feared there would be precious few items to sample from the book.
I needn’t have worried. Chapter titles range from ”Breakfast” to “Sweet and Savory Muffins” plus others for dips, snacks, salads, soups, pastas, side dishes, sauces and condiments. There are four chapters that cover entrées and seven (seven!) covering baked goods and desserts such as breads, cookies, pies, crumbles, cakes, candies, and puddings or ice creams and “libations.” Clearly, this book has something to offer every eater, special diet or not!
Hallmarks of the individual authors’ cooking styles are also evident in the book. Celine’s influence is detected throughout in the quirky ingredient combinations and wildly creative baked goods (Cookie Crumble Granola; Salsa Bread Rolls; Matcha Spelt Rolls with Bittersweet Chocolate Filling and Almond Icing; Pumpkin Chocolate Brownie Cake; Chocolate Tahini No-Bake Barley Bars, to name a few), while Joni’s touch is discernible in the many southwestern-themed recipes and her flair for converting “standard” dishes into vegan deliciousness (Buttermilk Biscuits and Gravy; Inari with Spicy Sushi Sauce, Au Gratin Potatoes, Spicy Chorizo Veggie Pie, Granny’s Meatloaf, Hot and Spicy Buffalo Sauce, and every kind of faux meat you can imagine). After a while, I was like a Beatles groupie poring over old albums, guessing the origin of each song: I bet John wrote this one. That one sounds like Paul. . . .
No matter who created it, though, I am happy to report I was pleased with every dish I tried–and that the HH, too, was a fan (especially of the eggplant and lentil pilaf). Recipes were easy to follow and the ones I made came together quickly and without a hitch. They’re also highlighted with keys to ingredients, such as “low fat” or “gluten free,” so you can pinpoint those that will work best for you.
For those of you who prefer cookbooks with photos, I should note that they are not included in this book. However, you can view pics of many of the goodies at the flickr page that was created for the book.
Even if you’re a long-standing vegan cook, there will be something novel for you in 500 Vegan Recipes. And if you’re new to veganism–or are simply looking for some healthier, lighter options at mealtimes–this is a great introduction to plant-based recipes. As for me, I’m counting the days until I can create more conventional baked goods again, and delve into some of those final seven chapters in the book!
Here are a few of the dishes I made (some with adjustments for my diet), with commentary. Pull up a chair and enjoy the feast (and don’t forget to enter the giveaway at the end of this post!)
Ginger Soy Tofu Satay with Simple Thai Peanut Dipping Sauce
A quick and easy dish to make, packed with Asian flavors. I used almond instead of peanut butter, of course, but that didn’t diminish the dish in any way. I loved how simply these came together. And how can you resist grill marks?
Veggie Curry Feast
Another super quick and simple dish, highlighting healthy cruciferous veggies. As you can see from my photo, I was likely a little heavy on the veggies in this one, so the sauce was a bit sparse (I’d double the sauce ingredients next time). Spicy, but not too much so, and extremely enticing, this was wonderful served on rice the following evening. Both the HH and I had seconds of this one.
Eggplant, Lentil, and Rice Pilaf
Yee-haw! This one is spi–say! If you like hot foods, you’ll love this all-in-one meal (and you can easily tone it down by adding less cayenne). A terrific comfort food for those damp, cool evenings in springtime, this Indian-inspired curry will definitely become a dinnertime staple. I apologize for the lack of photo–we gobbled it up before I snapped one!
Veganzola Balls
This was my favorite of the recipes I tried, and high on the HH’s list, as well. In fact, he specifically requested that I make this again. If you miss those big cheese balls everyone used to hover around at parties, you must try this. This recipe is also the one I used in the first version of my cheese-filled olive and onion bread, and it was astonishingly good baked into the loaf. Smooth, smoky, with a slight sweet undertone, this cheese can be spread on crackers, added to rolls or bread, or just eaten from the spoon.
Walnut and Currant Veganzola Balls (reproduced with permission from 500 Vegan Recipes)
[Veganzola as base for a lettuce wrap lunch]
Who says vegans can’t have cheese balls? Seriously, these are very, very cheeselike. Besides spreading on crackers, this also tastes amazing crumbled over a green salad or as a sandwich spread. [Ricki's note: also great baked into bread. I've included the ACD substitutions I made here--still fantastic!]
10 ounces (280 g) extra-firm tofu, drained and pressed
2 Tbsp (30 ml) extra-virgin olive oil
2 Tbsp (16 g) flax meal mixed with 2 Tbsp (30 ml) warm water
1 Tbsp (18 g) white miso
2 tsp (10 ml) minced garlic
1 tsp (5 ml) liquid smoke (use 1/2 tsp or 2.5 ml smoked paprika for ACD-friendly version)
1 cup (120 g) walnuts, broken into small pieces
1/2 cup (80 g) currants (use grape tomatoes for ACD-friendly version)
salt and pepper, to taste
In a mixing bowl, crumble the tofu until it resembles ricotta cheese. Add the olive oil, flax mixture, miso, garlic, and liquid smoke. Mash together until uniform. Mix in the walnut pieces, currants, and salt and pepper. [Note: I used a food processor for this step; I prefer a smoother mixture.] Form into two equal balls, form into a log, or simply place in a serving bowl. Yield: about 2-1/2 cups (563 g). [Mine kept in the refrigerator, covered, for up to 4 days].
And now. . . A COOKBOOK GIVEAWAY!
Celine and Joni have graciously agreed to give away a copy of the book to a lucky DDD reader!
All you need do to enter the draw is leave a comment on this post. Of course, you can earn extra entries the usual ways–by posting about the giveaway on your blog, twitter or Facebook (and also linking to this post)–though these others are totally optional. If you do post elsewhere, please come back here and comment again to let me know you did so; this makes tabulating entries so much easier.
The contest will remain open until midnight on Friday, April 2nd, after which I’ll randomly draw a winner.
[The final recipe, here with olives, green onion and almond feta]
I’ve seen it mentioned on twitter. I’ve noticed it in passing on other blogs. I’ve gone to their pages and read them. But sorry, folks, I still don’t get it.
Personally, I’d rather springform (pan) me. Then, at least, I’d have cheesecake when I was done.
Of course, I do understand the appeal of asking a blogger questions about her/himself; we all like to learn a little more about fellow bloggers’ personalities and personal lives. (When I first started blogging, memes were all the rage, and I happily participated. In a way, they accomplish something akin to Formspring, since they answer previously unanswered questions.) But what’s wrong with asking questions the old-fashioned way, through a blog comment, email, or social media? (Okay, maybe those methods aren’t so old-fashioned after all. But an inquisition, interrogation, jury duty interview or Miss Universe Pageant have all been done before).
So please, go ahead, ask me anything! (Like, for instance, what’s up with Kara DioGuardi on Idol this season? I mean, canoodling with Simon? Drooling over Casey? Crying??) Or perhaps you’d like to know: how did I make this inimitable cheese bread?
[An early attempt: higher, but too moist in the middle.]
Question Two: Why Am I Craving Bread All of the Sudden?
Now that I’m following Phase II of the ACD (almost a month with a “moderate” score on the ACD questionnaire! Whoopee!), I’m allowed certain new grains and the occasional flour product. Needless to say, I’ve been going to town baking again. And though the sweet side of the recipe folder may remain a little neglected for a while, I’m perfectly happy to play with savory.
I’m not sure why I ended up with a hankering for this type of meal-in-a-loaf (or any bread, really), since I’ve never been a fan of these floury foods in any form. I rarely consume sandwiches (in fact, you’ll find but one mention of a sandwich on this blog, and only two recipes for breads). The idea of white bread–even a really good, crusty Italian ciabatta or French baguette–leaves me feeling “meh.” Now, give me a dense, hearty pumpernickel or a moist, tawny rye, and I’m there. These were the kinds of breads we had in our house growing up–straight from my dad’s butcher shop (in an area where ethnic bakeries abounded); bread was something substantial, hefty, and dense; bread could double as a doorstop, or a means of self-defense (sorta like my confiscated keychain).
Recently, I completed testing for an upcoming review of Celine and Joni’s amazing 500 Vegan Recipes (on the blog soon!) and found myself with some leftover ”veganzola” cheese (the HH and I both loved it, and indeed enjoyed it for a few days in a row, but the recipe yields a huge amount).
Contemplating what I could do with the cheese, it suddenly hit me: “savory bread!”
Question Three: So How Do You Get the Caramel into the Caramilk Cheese into the Bread?
[Starting out with cheese filled savory muffins]
I thought it would be cool to enclose pockets of cheese within the bread so that each slice revealed a coin of the creamy stuff along with other savory goodies such as olives and green onions. But how to accomplish this feat–how to prevent the cheese from melting and dissipating into the bread, effectively disappearing?
I baked up an early batch in muffin form, simply to test the theory; would the cheese remain distinct from the batter? The answer was, clearly, “yes.” And these savory muffins make a great breakfast accompaniment.
I thought the bread would be more visually appealing, however, as a single loaf, so that’s what I tried next (told you I had lots of cheese left over!). Doubling the muffin recipe resulted in a huge slab, but one that required almost 2 hours to bake–and the middle was still a little too moist at that point.
Back to the flouring board.
[The final product: whole loaf success!]
Finally, I tweaked the recipe and proportions (while preserving the same ratios of ingredients–thanks, Michael Ruhlman!) to create a loaf about 3/4 the volume of my first attempt. This one baked up beautifully in just over an hour. I could barely wait for it to cool before tasting it–and when I did finally sink my teeth in, oooh mama! Success!
The combination of tangy, salty cheese; briny, marinated olives; and delicately pungent onion was divine. The cheese remained soft within the moist, dense bread, punctuating each slice with a warm pillow of creaminess. Manna!
Question Four: Sure, I May Have Liked It, But Are My Tastebuds Skewed From Being on the ACD for So Long?
As I sliced up the bread to photograph it for the blog, the HH observed from across the room.
“What is that?” he asked.
“Cheese bread with olives and onions,” I replied, crumbs dribbling from my mouth.
“Yeah, but it’s veeee-gan cheese, right?”
“Yup.” (munch, munch).
He watched me scarf down the first slice and reach for another. “Okay,” he conceded as I bit into it, “let me have a taste.” I handed over a corner of the slice.
He chewed contemplatively. “Hmm. Not bad,” he said. He broke off another piece from the slice and gobbled it up. Then he reached for the bread on the table.
“You can’t eat that yet–I have to take a photo,” I said.
“Well, hurry up,” he scowled, “this is really good.”
And that, dear readers, is when I knew: if an omnivorous, cheese-loving, gluten-eating, generally ornery and skeptical male wanted to chow down on this GF and vegan bread, I had a real winner on my hands.
Question Five: So What Are You Waiting For? Go Bake Bread!
Cheese Filled Onion and Olive Bread (ACD Phase II and Beyond)
This bread is so hearty, so substantial and satisfying that you may find all you need is a light green salad alongside a slice, and you’ve got a meal. And just look at that crumb!
1/4 cup (60 ml) unsweetened applesauce
2 Tbsp (30 ml) tahini (sesame paste)
1-1/4 cups (300 ml) unsweetened almond, soy or hemp milk
1/2 tsp (2.5 ml) apple cider vinegar
2 Tbsp (30 ml) extra virgin olive oil, preferably organic
3 Tbsp (45 ml) finely ground flax seeds
1/3 cup (80 ml) oil-cured black olives, pitted and cut in half
2-3 green onions, sliced (white and light green parts only)
3/4 cup (90 g) amaranth flour (or use quinoa)
1-1/4 cups (145 g) millet flour
1/2 cup (55 g) soy flour
1 Tbsp (15 ml) arrowroot or organic cornstarch
2-1/4 tsp (12 ml) baking powder
3/4 tsp (7.5 ml) baking soda
1/2 tsp (2.5 ml) fine sea salt
about 1/2 cup (120 ml) of your favorite soft, flavorful “cheese,” homemade or packaged (I used “veganzola” from 500 Vegan Recipes and, in the final loaf, this feta.)
Preheat oven to 350F (190C). Line an 8″ (20 cm) loaf pan with parchment, or spray with nonstick spray.
In a medium bowl, whisk the applesauce and tahini until smooth. Slowly add the soymilk and mix well. Stir in the vinegar, oil and flax seeds. Gently fold in the olives and onion; set aside while you prepare the dry ingredients, or at least 5 minutes (this will allow the flax to absorb excess moisture).
In a large bowl, sift together the amaranth flour, millet flour, soy flour, arrowroot powder, baking powder, baking soda and salt. Add the wet mixture to the dry and stir just to blend (do not overmix or your bread may not rise!). The dough should be the texture of a thick muffin batter.
Very gently, spoon about half the batter into the bottom of the pan (it doesn’t have to be perfect; just estimate), spreading to ensure there are no uncovered spots. Then, using about 2 teaspoons (10 ml) cheese per portion, stagger mounds of cheese across the top of the batter, taking care not to touch the sides of the pan (and ensuring that the hunks of cheese don’t touch each other, either). Carefully spoon the remaining batter over the first half in the pan, gently spreading it to cover the cheese completely.
Bake in preheated oven 70-75 minutes, rotating the pan about halfway through, until the loaf is very deep golden brown on top (the usual test of doneness won’t work here, as the cheese will remain wet; however, if you’re certain you’re poking the loaf where there is no cheese, you can test with a toothpick inserted in the batter).
Allow to cool in the pan for 15 minutes before gently turning the loaf onto a cooling rack. Slice using a sharp knife that has been dipped in hot water and wiped dry between cuts (this will prevent the cheese from sticking to the knife, which can cause the slices to crumble). Especially good warm or at room temperature with melted coconut oil. Makes 8-10 generous slices. May be frozen.
