Dealing with all the exigencies of the anti candida diet (ACD) can really be a challenge. After more than a year without sugars (sniff, boo hoo), most fruits (miss ya, mangoes!), gluten (you were overrated anyway), yeasts (nooch! nooch!), fungi (bye, bye, portobello steaks) or anything else fermented (thank God you can get black olives cured in oil), I’ve often found that turning to raw foods is a fairly easy way to ensure compliance.
Apart from raw desserts (which tend to rely on dates and other fruits), it’s pretty simple to stick to the ACD guidelines by choosing from the living foods menu, as it already eliminates most sweeteners and most grains or grain products (and, let’s face it, most of us on the ACD probably got there by overdoing it on the sweets and grains).
As a result, I was particularly delighted that the folks at Book Publishing Company sent me a copy of the latest in the “Becoming” series of books by Brenda Davis and Vesanto Melina, Becoming Raw: The Essential Guide to Raw Vegan Diets. I already own the other two books (Becoming Vegetarianand Becoming Vegan), so I knew I was in for a treat with this new tome as well. (The publisher provided a complimentary copy of the book for review. To view this blog’s entire disclosure policy, click here).
Like its predecessors, this newest volume is brimming with useful and often fascinating information, covering virtually every detail you’ll need to know if you’re contemplating a switch to a raw, plant-based diet. In her review, Alisa called the book (at 376 pages) a “dense read.” And while it does, indeed, offer a plethora of statistics, charts, tables, definitions and other details, I must admit that this is just the kind of extensive and comprehensive information–all backed by solid scientific research–that I enjoy reading (and which fans have come to expect from this duo of nutritionists). As a reference book, Becoming Raw provides a sturdy basis on which to transition to a raw vegan diet.
The introductory chapter, “Becoming Raw for Life,” addresses some of the typical questions and concerns associated with embracing a raw foods diet. For instance, can one obtain enough protein on a raw regime? What about cooked foods? Right from the outset, the authors’ approach to the topic is open minded and eschews any too-rigid stance (they argue that cooked foods are not necessarily a bad thing, even though an entirely raw diet may be perfectly healthy for some people).
They also offer a comprehensive history of the raw foods movement from the pioneers to the current icons, including the many illnesses that see improvement on a raw diet. From rheumatoid arthritis to cardiovascular disease, diabetes, obesity and many more, a raw food diet appears to offer benefits in preventing and treating these conditions. The authors also present abundant information about plant chemicals and compounds (such as antioxidants) that can benefit health, as well as some of the problems with cooked food (such as acrylamide, a byproduct of heating most starchy foods).
The subsequent chapters about macronutrients (proteins, carbs and fats) and micronutrients (vitamins and minerals) could easily rival those in texts I studied while in nutrition school for their breadth and detailed explanations of how these nutrients function in the body, why we need them, and how much to ingest for optimal health.
The chapter on carbohydrates, for instance, provides a thorough definition of the glycemic index (GI), glycemic load, and an explanation of why some foods with a higher GI may nevertheless be a better choice for their ultimate effect on blood sugar levels (crucial for someone like moi who follows an ACD). They point out, “watermelon has a glycemic index of 72, which is very high (higher than white bread or white sugar).” On the other hand, “a 3.5 ounce (100 gram) serving of watermelon provides only 8 grams of carbohydrate. In order to get the blood glucose results predicted by the glycemic index, a person would need to eat about 6.25 servings, or 22 ounces (625 grams) of watermelon.” Does this suggest, I wondered, that raw fruits would actually be acceptable on the ACD, even if they’re sweet? For now, I’m sticking with the original diet, but this fact is definitely intriguing.
Finally, the authors devote an entire chapter to “The Great Enzyme Controversy,” addressing theories and research about whether or not enzymes in raw foods are essential and account for the health-promoting benefits of these foods. (I won’t reveal their final conclusion, but will let you read the ultimate results on your own.)
Concluding true to its subtitle as an “essential guide,” the book wraps up with suggested menus and enough recipes in each category (juices, breakfast foods, soups, salads, main dishes, desserts) to get you started on your own raw regimen. The two recipes I sampled (Green Giant Juice and Zucchini Linguine with Bolognese Sauce) were superb. For more recipes from the book, check Alisa’s review and Lisa’s series about the book, which begins here.
Becoming Raw is an excellent resource that clarifies and demystifes the raw vegan diet. As with their previous best selling books, Davis and Melina can help to direct you on a path toward a plant-based, raw lifestyle in a way that’s informed, intelligent, and health-promoting.
Celeriac (or Zucchini) Linguine with Bolognese Sauce and Hemp Parmesan (plus myACD-friendly version)
While the list of ingredients may seem daunting, you can prepare the seed mix and hemp parmesan in advance, and the dish can later be assembled very quickly. Incredibly satisfying and every bit as filling as meat-based pasta, this multi-layered dish provides an impressive 21 grams of protein, 17 g of dietary fiber, and 277 mg of calcium per serving. I used zucchini as my grocer was out of celeriac, but I’m sure the celery root would be equally delectable. My ACD-based changes follow.
Tomato Sauce (makes about 4 cups/1 liter):
20 sundried tomato halves or pieces, soaked for 6-24 hours in 1-2/3 cups (414 ml) water
5 pitted medjool dates, or 10 pitted regular dates, soaked for 6-24 hours in 1/3 cup (80 ml) water
1/4 red onion, chopped
1 Tbsp (15 ml) dried oregano
1 clove garlic, minced
2 tomatoes, chopped
1 cup (250 ml) grated carrots
Seed Mix (makes about 2 cups/500 ml):
1/2 cup (125 ml) shredded carrot
1/2 cup (125 ml) chopped fresh parsley
1/2 cup (125 ml) sunflower seeds, soaked for 1 hour, drained and rinsed
2-4 Tbsp (30-60 ml) Nama shoyu or tamari (soy sauce)
2 Tbsp (30 ml) freshly squeezed lemon juice or apple cider vinegar
1 Tbsp (15 ml) miso
1/4 cup (60 ml) sesame seeds, soaked for 1 hour, drained and rinsed
1/4 cup (60 ml) hempseeds
Celeriac Linguine (makes 8 cups/2 liters):
8 cups (2 liters) shredded celeriac or zucchini (spiralized, julienned witha mandolin, or grated)
2 Tbsp (30 ml) extra virgin olive oil
juice of 1/2 lemon
Hemp Parmesan (makes 1/4 cup/60 ml):
2 Tbsp (30 ml) hempseeds
2 Tbsp (30 ml) nutritional yeast flakes
1/8 tsp (3/4 ml) salt
To make the tomato sauce, put the sundried tomaotes and their soaking water in a food processor or blender. Add the dates and their soaking water. Then add the onion, oregano, and garlic. Process until smooth. Transfer to a bowl. Stir in the fresh tomatoes and carrots.
To make the Seed Mix, put the carrot, parsley, sunflower seeds, pumpkin seeds, Nama Shoyu, lemon juice, and miso in a food processor. Process until smooth. Add the sesame seeds and hempseeds. Pulse until evenly mixed. Stored in a sealed container in the refrigerator, the Seed Mix will keep for 3 days.
Alternately, spread the Seed Mix on a dehydrator tray with a nonstick sheet. Dehydrate at 115 degrees F (46 C) for 3 hours. Crumble with your fingers. Serve warm or store in the refrigerator.
To make the Celeriac Linguine, combine allt he ingredients in a large bowl. Toss until evenly mixed. Cover and refrigerate until serving time, up to 4 hours.
Tip: To keep the shredded celeriac moist while preparing the remainder of the recipe, sprinkle it with a little water so it does not dry out.
To make the Hemp Parmesan, combine all the ingredients in a small bowl. Stir until evenly mixed. Stored in a sealed container in the refrigerator, Hemp Parmesan will keep for 1 month.
Assemble lthe finished dish just before serving. For each serving, arrange 2 cups (500 ml) of hte Celeriac Linguine on a plate. Combine the Tomato Sauce and the Seed Mix to create the Bolognese Sauce and stir gently[I folded gently so that the seed mix retained some of its own texture scattered throughout the sauce] . Top each serving with about 1-1/2 cups (375 ml) of the Bolognese Sauce. Sprinkle with about 1 Tbsp (15 ml) of the Hemp Parmesan. Makes 4 hearty servings.
ACD-Friendly Variation (Phase I and beyond):
I followed the original recipe as written, except for these changes:
For the Tomato Sauce: use 2 pints (about 500 ml) grape tomatoes instead of the sundried tomatoes. Remove 1 cup/240 ml (20-30 tomatoes) and cut in half; reserve for later. Preheat oven to 325F (170C) and place the remainder of the tomatoes on a cookie sheet lined with parchment. Bake until the tomatoes begin to dry out and wrinkle a bit, 40-50 minutes. Allow to cool slightly. Use the baked tomatoes in place of the sundried tomatoes, and the reserved (chopped) tomatoes in place of the 2 chopped tomatoes in the original recipe; do not add any extra water (as in the original recipe), unless necessary to achieve a sauce-like texture.
Omit the dates and use 10-20 drops of stevia instead (adjust to your taste, and based on how sweet your baked tomatoes are). Do not add extra water, as in the original recipe. I also added 2 tsp (10 ml) dried basil to the sauce.
For the Hemp Parmesan: Omit the nutritional yeast and use 2 Tbsp (30 ml) pine nuts instead.
This month’s SOS (Sweet or Savory) Kitchen Challenge asked readers to whip up dishes with spinach, and wow, did you ever take on this challenge with gusto! We received a dozen fantastic, creative recipes to try that all highlight the super-healthy leafy green. And yes, a few desserts are included as well!
Thanks to everyone who entered the challenge this month. As always, if you’ve submitted a recipe and I forgot to include it here, please let me know asap so I can add it to the list.
Here’s what’s on the menu with spinach:
THE SAVORY CONTRIBUTIONS:
Our very first entry was from Janet at Taste Space (Toronto) –a colorful and delicious Quinoa and Butternut Squash Spinach Salad with Cranberry and Pear. Well, I think the title tells you everything you need to know–doesn’t that just sound delectable? This savory salad is also a bit sweet with the pear and cranberries. Suitable for gluten free, vegan, sugar free, egg free and dairy free diets.
Jacqueline of Tinned Tomatoes (Dundee, Scotland) offers up a great recipe for Spicy Spinach and Potato Curry adapted from a recipe she found in one huge tome of a cookbook. Her pics look great (and check out the gratuitious cuteness of her new baby, Cooper!) This recipe is suitable for gluten free, soy-free, vegan, and ACD diets (contains coconut milk).
Kiersten from Full of Beans (Charlotte, NC )’s vegan Coconut Curried Chickpeas and Spinach looks like the perfect quick weekday dinner. I love a good curry, and with chickpeas AND spinach, you can’t go wrong with this one! Vegan, soy-free, gluten free, ACD-friendly and otherwise nut-free.
A double savory whammy comes to us from Lisa of Vegan Cookbook Critic (Toronto). First up, Lisa created a quick and easy savory Avocado-Spinach Spread–just look at the deep emerald color of that dip!
She also “uncooked” some gorgeously green Spinach-Hemp Flatbreads on which to spread it. Unlike many other dehydrated flatbreads, these remain soft, perfect for sandwiches. These both are vegan, dairy free, gluten free, raw, and sugar free.
Mom at the Gluten-Free Edge (Georgetown, Texas) decided that her Spinach Mushroom Pie should undergo a vegan revamp for this month’s entry! This is her remake of a long-time favorite recipe, and it worked out beautifully. The recipe is gluten free and vegan.
Chaya from The Comfy Cook is back this month with a fabulous Oriental Rice Pizza. This savory dish is filled with veggies and is a snap to make with its rice-based crust. It’s gluten free, sugar free and dairy free.
Johanna of Green Gourmet Giraffe (Melbourne, Australia) offers a cheezy spinach-based soup this month with her Pumpkin, Bean and Spinach Soup. While the recipe itself looks delicious, half the fun of the recipe is Johanna’s recounting of the experimentation that led her to it. And doesn’t the concept of tofu croutons just sound fabulous?
Valerie of City Life Eats (Washington, DC) has created a Lemony Spinach Pepita Pesto. With a unique combination of ingredients, this pesto would be delicious on more than just pasta. It’s gluten free, vegan, nut free, sugar free and ACD-friendly.
Aubree Cherie, who blogs at Living Free (Kennett Square, PA), decided to move out of her usual spinach zone with these Almond Spinach Biscuits. A great savory biscuit with a hint of sweet (dried cranberries), these treats were gobbled up by her significant other in no time. Definitely a fun (and delicious) recipe. Gluten free, sugar free, vegan and ACD-friendly.
My event partner, Kim at Affairs of Living, cooked up a fabulous Creamy Spinach and Celeriac Soup for those days when you crave something rich and healthy at the same time. The recipe is vegan, gluten free, sugar free, ACD friendly, soy free and nut free.
My savory contribution this month is a Classic Tofu Quiche recipe that I’ve had for years but never thought to post. The millet crust helps to make it quick, easy, and delicious! It’s gluten free, sugar free and vegan.
THE SWEET CONTRIBUTIONS (Yes, even spinach has a sweet side!):
Rachel from My Munchable Musings (WA) treated us to two sweet recipes this month! First up are these Spring Picnic Cupcakes, her take on the classic Strawberry and Spinach Salad–in a sweet mini confection! She’s also included a great bit of additional history and nutritional information about spinach here. These are wheat free, sugar free and vegan.
Rachel also created these adorable Green Thumb Print Cookies, that are gluten free! I love how the strawberry sits perfectly in the thumb print–seriously yummy looking. These are gluten free, sugar free and vegan.
Kim’s second contribution this month is her Invisible Spinach Smoothie. While you may have enjoyed smoothies with spinach before, this quick and easy recipe contains another veggie that you might not expect. Vegan, ACD-friendly, gluten free.
Finally, my sweet contribution is this Green Monster Muffin. Based on the concept of green smoothies, these muffins offer up spinach in a slightly sweet, hearty breakfast baked good. I’ve used chopped apples, but you could add in raisins or even chocolate chips to the mix if you like. Vegan, sugar free, gluten free.
Thanks again to everyone who played along this month. Enjoy these recipes until next month, when Kim–our hostess for June’s Challenge–will announce the new SOS ingredient.
(“What? Mum, you’re not getting a divorce, are you? Because who’s going to walk us in the morning if Dad is gone??“). Now, before I go and scare The Girls, I should specify that I’m not referring to a human object of my affection. I’m talking about a new food-related amore: celeri rémoulade. (“Phew! Mum, you really shouldn’t scare us that way. We’re very sensitive, you know.”)
Let me backtrack a bit and explain. Even though the HH and I do celebrate Valentine’s Day, for the past few years we’ve done so a day or two after the fact, in order to avoid the too-crowded-too-expensive-too-mushy restaurant crowds who seem to roll out like fog off a San Francisco pier all on that one day. Last year (the first V-day to occur after I started writing this blog), I broke all previous records and assembled a multi-course, ultra-extravagant, über-romantic and oh-so-dirty dinner (no, no, no, that would have scared the dogs even more than a breakup! We’d never offend their delicate sensibilities that way. I meant “dirty” as in, “generating a lot of dirty dishes,” silly!). I vowed that this year, we’d move to the other end of the spectrum, with a simple, quick, yet equally delectable meal. (“Thanks, Mum. That divorce scare was more than enough for one day.”)
I’d actually chosen the appetizer over a month ago, after reading about celeri rémoulade on Molly’s blog. Her description was so alluring–rapturous, almost–citing the “clean, fragrant crunch of celery root, and the alchemy of mayonnaise and Dijon mustard. . . . somewhat rich [with a] flavor [that's] light, bright, even hungry-making, a perfect start to a meal,” that I knew I had to try it out. The only glitch, of course, is that traditionally, the dish contains copious amounts of both mayonnaise and yogurt (the vegan versions of which are a tad too processed for my liking). Never mind; I decided to deal with that later.
For the main course, I considered a recipe for Tempeh Stroganoff I’d found in an old (October 2007!) issue of Vegetarian Times.
[11:32 AM. Ricki and the HH sit at the kitchen table, sipping tea and nibbling on muffins. The Girls lie on the carpet in front of the fireplace, Chaser sprawled with her belly facing the fire, while Else lies curled in a ball.]
Ricki: How about this tempeh stroganoff from VegetarianTimes?
HH: No.
Ricki: But it sounds delicious! And it’s even gluten-fr–
HH: Uh-uh. No. Nada. No way. Nein. [As if to remind Ricki of a forgotten promise]: No tofu.
Ricki: But it’s not tofu. It’s tempeh.
HH: Tempeh, tofu–same difference. No soy products.
Ricki: [pouting] Well, but, this is what I want for dinner!
HH: Okay, fine. I’ll make a steak and have the stroganoff as a side dish.
Ricki: That’s why I love you, sweetheart. Happy Valentine’s Day! Kiss kiss squeeze squeeze hug hug. . .
Okay, I didn’t really say that. But I did think it. Here’s what I did say:
Me: That’s fine, HH. But just because you’re cooking your own steak doesn’t mean you don’t have to help me make the stroganoff.
HH: Okay.
Ricki: That’s why I love you, sweetheart. Happy Valentine’s Day! Kiss kiss squeeze squeeze hug hug. . .
We figured we could whip up the stroganoff in under an hour (bake the meatballs while I made the sauce; julienne the celery root while the stroganoff simmered), having time to leisurely prepare the meal ensemble while listening to some Rodrigo, exchange good-natured banter, toss cashews to The Girls and sip our favorite bargain basement champagne, sort of like we used to do in the early days of our relationship. We’d have the early part of the day to relax in our jammies, peruse the newspaper, play with The Girls, check favorite blogs, and so on. Perfect!
After a chillaxing day (browsing the paper, taking The Girls for a trail-walk, visiting the workout club–how ya doin’, burly guy with the black knee socks? Nice to see you again, septuagenarian couple with the matching T-shirts! Nice day, isn’t it, bleached blonde with the flirty giggle!), we finally turned to dinner.
Perhaps I should have planned this “easy peasy” meal just a tad more carefully. (Of course, by the time I got round to cooking, I was semi sloshed on Segura Viudas, which may have contributed to my somewhat inefficient kitchen artistry–but still).
First, I discovered that the cashews (the main ingredient in the homemade sour cream) required an hour’s soaking, which set our prep time back by an hour. No problem: I’d whir together some homemade vegan mayonnaise (I used the recipe in Cozy Inside, but this one sounds just as good) and whip up the meatballs while the nuts soaked. Then, I’d quickly prep the sour cream and throw together the stroganoff while the HH grilled his steak. We’d be done and ready to dig in by 7:00 PM at the latest.
[7:00 PM. Having forgotten about the initial chopping and sautéing involved, Ricki is still mixing ingredients for the meatballs. Sounds of rumbling tummies can be heard in the background.]
HH: So, um, what’s our ETA for dinner?
Ricki: Well, I’ll just pop these meatballs in the oven–I couldn’t bear to fry them–and then make the mayo and sour cream, and then I can whip up the stroganoff, and then the celeri rémoulade, oh, and then I guess we should think about dessert–
HH: I thought this was going to be a quick and easy dinner.
Ricki [pouting]: Well, now, I suppose it HAS been easy for YOU, hasn’t it, Mr. Lazypants? I mean, I’VE done all the work so far, I’m standing here covered in onion juice and flour and cashew crumbs, and YOU’VE been sittng there all day reading the paper and playing with the dogs, sipping your champagne, now, haven’t you?? Well, I wouldn’t be complaining right about now if I were you, mister, you’d better watch yourself, or else—
HH: Um, well, I’m actually happy to help. Just tell me what to chop. Oh, and here’s your Valentine’s Day present [brandishing chocolate].
Me: Oh, that’s why I love you, sweetheart! Happy Valentine’s Day! Kiss kiss squeeze squeeze hug hug. . .
Ultimately, we didn’t sit down at the table until well after 8:00 PM (have you ever julienned a celery root by hand??? Insanity, I tell you–sheer insanity). But the results were well worth it. The celeri rémoulade was, as Molly promised, fresh, crisp, light, and entirely irresistible. I really did fall in love, and ate two servings before even thinking about my stroganoff.
The main course, too, offered a winning combination of succulent, filling meatless balls atop a plate of velvety, herbaceous sauce. It practically hummed its smooth melody of rich, sour cream and savory, toothsome mushrooms.
It may have been more complex than anticipated, and it may have taken six times as long as anticipated, and it may have been cobbled together from seven different recipes intended for seven other purposes. . . but this meal was remarkable all the same.
After all, who ever said the road to true love was an easy one?
In case you’d like to reproduce the meal yourself (if you happen to have three and a half hours to spare some weekend), here’s how I assembled it.
And since celery root is available in Ontario in February, this post is my submission to Maninas’s event, Eating with the Seasons, for February.
Vegan Celeri Rémoulade adapted from Orangette (ACD Stage 3 and beyond)
Light and almost ethereal, this salad will enchant with its thin, crisp matchsticks of celeriac and creamy, fragrant dressing.
1 small to medium celery root
6 Tbsp (75 ml) mayonnaise of your choice
2 Tbsp (30 ml) this “sour cream” (save the rest for the stroganoff sauce)
1 Tbsp plus 1/2 tsp (17.5 ml) dijon mustard
salt, to taste
lemon juice, to taste
To prepare the celery root, peel away all the outer gnarly skin until you have a smooth, white root ball. Cut the root in half and place cut side down on a cutting board.
Slice the halves into thin slices. Stack the slices and cut again into thin matchsticks. If you have a mandolin and it will handle celery root, by all means use that instead (and avoid a 40-minute operation if done by hand–though of course you won’t revel in the same satisfaction as you will from doing it by hand. But then again, who cares?). Place the matchsticks in a large bowl.
In a small bowl, prepare the dressing: whisk together the remaining ingredients. Pour over the celery root and toss to coat. Allow to sit about 10 minutes for flavors to meld before devouring. Makes 4-6 servings. Will keep, tightly covered, in the refrigerator for 3 days.
[More romantic lighting! Okay, actually, it was just evening and fairly dark when I took the pic.]
Meatball Stroganoff (GF option) based on a recipe in Vegetarian Times, October 2007
While I enjoyed the disparate elements of this dish immensely, I think next time I’d pair the meatballs with a tomato-based sauce, as Jes does in her original recipe. The stroganoff sauce would be fine on its own, too.
1 recipe tempeh (or other) meatballs (I used this one–ues GF meatballs for GF option)
4 ounces (115 g) button or other mushrooms (I used portabello)
2 Tbsp (30 ml) tamari or soy sauce (use GF for GF option)
1/4 cup (40 g) brown rice flour
1/2 tsp (2.5 ml) dried mustard powder
1/8 tsp (.5 ml) ground nutmeg
1/4 cup (60 ml) Madeira, vermouth, or apple juice (I used vermouth)
3 cups (720 ml) vegetable broth (or use 2 tsp/10 ml bouillon powder and water) (use GF for GF option)
1Tbsp (15 ml) olive oil
1 medium yellow onion, thinly sliced
1 cup (240 ml) chopped kale, collards, or Swiss chard1/4 cup (45 g) potato starch
about 8 ounces (225 g) rice pasta, or pasta of your choice
paprika, for garnish, if desired
In a small bowl, toss the mushrooms with the tamari and set aside. Meanwhile, combine the starch, flour, mustard and nutmeg in a large bowl. Slowly whisk in the madeira until smooth; then whisk in the broth until well blended. Set aside.
In a frypan, heat the oil over medium heat and then sauté the onion until translucent. Add the mushrooms with the tamari and continue to sauté another 2-3 minutes. Add the kale and cook for another minute, until it begins to wilt.
Pour the liquid mixture over the vegetables in the frypan, and stir over medium-low heat until it begins to bubble and thicken. Add the sour cream and stir to blend well (if sauce is too thick, add more water or some soymilk). Keep warm while you prepare the pasta.
To serve, place pasta on a plate and top with several warm meatballs. Spoon sauce over all, and garnish with paprika if desired. Serve immediately. Makes 4-6 servings.
Years ago (oops, make that a decade), during the tumultuous year after my starter marriage dissolved, I lived with my friend Gemini I. As two single thirty-somethings interested in social events or activities that might bring us into contact with eligible men, we decided to try out some cooking classes (what were we thinking? We might as well have looked for guys in the pantyhose department at Macy’s. . . oh, wait a sec: apparently, in Australia, that’s exactly where you might meet some guys these days).
In any case, we signed up for one series run by a well-heeled Toronto chatelaine who’d attended Le Cordon Bleu (it was only a weekend seminar, but she never told us that) and decided to teach classes out of her home. It took just one evening, and I was hooked; after that, Gemini I and I attended about half a dozen more classes as well. It’s not that I actually learned very much; and the food, while fine, wasn’t the most spectacular I’d had, either. But oh, what a house!
Oh my, how I envied her house. Situated beside a thickly forested ravine on a cul-de-sac in the tony Rosedale area, Ms. Culinati’s residence was a massive, ivy-covered, stone-and-brick Tudor style mansion of at least 5,000 square feet, almost more like a museum than a home. At over 100 years old, the building’s interior had been completely renovated and rendered ultra-modern inside. The setup was perfect for cooking classes: after passing beneath the towering entryway, we participants filed across the open-concept first floor (tiled in marble), toward a state-of-the-art kitchen just off the entrance. There were six cushy stools lined up against one side of a wide, grey and black granite peninsula, which also divided the room and separated us from the cooking area.
Ms. Cordon Bleu held forth on the opposite side of the counter behind the built-in stainless steel stovetop, prepping ingredients and chattering about the best shop in Paris to buy Le Creuset, the plumpest, most perfect berries at All the Best on Summerhill (even back then, I recall that a pint–about 500 ml.–of strawberries cost over $4.00 at that store), or how she flew to New York last weekend to pick up the very best fleur de sel(because really, you simply couldn’t use anything less).
Despite the fact that our personal orbits existed in completely different universes, I still enjoyed the recipes, the skillfully selected wines that accompanied them, and the stolen glances around the rest of the house as I ostensibly attended to our cooking. And, of course, it was always rewarding to have an evening out with Gemini I.
Most of the dishes I encountered in those classes, I will never make again, either because they contain ingredients I no longer eat, or because they contain ingredients far too extravagant for everyday consumption (last I heard, her courses had morphed into all-out travel tours, wherein participants flew to Tuscany for a week to cook and live together in a villa. Who are these people, and how can I be written into the will? Just asking).
Still, almost despite herself, in one class Ms. C.B. provided us with this recipe for Curried Root Vegetable Chowder with Dumplings. And while the original soup contained chicken broth, butter and wheat flour, it was a cinch to convert.
I’ve loved this chowder since the first time I slurped it back in the 1990s. It’s one of the easiest soups you’ll ever make (and while the dumplings are marvelous and do elevate the broth an echelon, you can just as easily forego the sophistication, toss in some elbow pasta, and happily spoon this up for a quick weekday dinner). Once the veggies are chopped, it’s a matter of a quick sauté, a splash of prepared broth, and a sprinkling of ONE spice: mild curry powder. It also makes use of an underused, but very tasty, root veggie: celery root.
It sounds almost too simple, I know; but believe me, the result will astonish you. The varying levels of sweetness from the different roots, along with the whisper of curry, combine for a soothing, warming and entirely captivating dish. This is one soup you’ll want to stay at home for. In fact, it’s the perfect soup to charm those eligible guys–that is, once you find them.
This month’s No Croutons Required is asking for soups or salads with pasta. I’m hoping these dumplings count. The event was started by Lisa and Holler and is this month being hosted by Holler.
Curried Root Vegetable Chowder with Dumplings
(adapted from a very old recipe from The Art of Food Cooking School)
This is the perfect soup to serve to guests; the dumplings elevate this to a fancier level, yet the soup is down to earth and very appealing. For a gluten-free option, omit the dumplings or use your favorite dumpling recipe with GF flour.
2 Tbsp. (30 ml.) extra virgin olive oil
1 small onion, chopped
2 cloves garlic, minced
1-1/2 tsp. (7.5 ml.) mild curry powder
4 cups vegetable broth
2 medium carrots, peeled, halved and cut into 1/2-inch (1 cm) pieces
2 large parsnips, peeled, thick end halved lengthwise, and cut into 1/2 inch (1 cm.) pieces
1 small celery root (celeriac), trimmed, peeled and cut into 1/4 inch (1/2 cm) cubes
1 medium sweet potato (yam), peeled and cut into 1/2 inch (1 cm.) cubes
1 tsp. (5 ml.) sea salt, if broth is unsalted
freshly chopped cilantro, for garnish
Dumplings:
1 cup (140 g.) spelt flour
1-1/2 tsp. (7.5 ml.) baking powder
1/2 tsp. (2.5 ml.) sea salt
1/2 tsp. (2.5 ml.) nutmeg
2 Tbsp. (30 ml.) cold coconut oil
1/4 cup (60 ml.) currants
5-6 Tbsp. (75-90 ml.) unsweetened soymilk or almond milk
To make the soup, heat the oil in a large pot or dutch oven over medium heat. Add the onion and cook for 3 mintues. Add the garlic and curry powder and cook for another minute or so.
Stir in the broth, carrots and parsnips. Bring to a boil, then reduce to a simmer. Cover and simmer for 10 minutes. Stir in the celery root and sweet potato and cook for 10 more minutes.
Meanwhile, make the dumplings: In a medium bowl, sift the flour, baking powder, salt and nutmeg. Rub in the coconut oil (pinch the mixture between your thumb and fingers repeatedly) until the mixutre resembles a coarse meal. Add currants and toss to coat. Add milk and stir with a fork until the mixture comes together.
Season the broth with salt and pepper to taste. Then roll bits of the dumpling dough (about a tablespoon for each) into balls and place on top of the simmering broth. Cover and cook without disturbing for 15 minutes. Remove the cover and divide the soup into 4 bowls [I've found it makes much more than this]. Garnish with cilantro and serve. May be frozen.
This recipe is suitable for gluten free, soy-free, vegan, and ACD diets (contains coconut milk).
