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Sold on Old: My Mother’s Vegetable-Bread Kugel

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Most of us are familiar with George Bernard Shaw’s dictum, “Youth is wasted on the young.”  Well, of course I realized that saying was just a bunch of bunk. . . until I hit 40, that is.  At that point, I realized, “Oh, woe, why did I waste my youth on being young??”

There’s no denying we live in a youth-obsessed culture, one in which the elderly are given little if any respect or recognition (though I bet that will all change once Baby Boomers reach their 70s and 80s. . . they do tend to take over everything, don’t they?). 

It’s a truism to say that when a woman reaches her 40s (unless she’s a Cougar like Courtney Cox-Arquette), she becomes more or less invisible to the opposite sex.  (Seriously. I’ve walked across the street from a bevy of construction workers in shorts and a T-shirt, with nary a glance.  The Girls got more flirting than I did!).  And why do we stuff the elderly into homes with only each other, like a clothing store full of only black socks–and no other varieties?  (When I was last in Montreal, The CFO and I visited a retirement residence into which my dad is considering moving.  While the place was modern, clean and provided roomy apartments, good food, and weekly entertainment, his first comment upon leaving the building was, “It’s okay. . . but they’re all so old.”  This from a guy who’s 88! Truly, if I inherit even half of my dad’s health and longevity genes, I’ll be a lucky woman, indeed.)

I suppose it’s inevitable that “old” becomes synonymous with “useless” in a culture that builds obsolescence into most inventions.  Last week I heard a radio interview by Jian Ghomeshi of CBC’s Q (Jian, you know that I have a massive crush on you, the likes of which I haven’t seen since I was fourteen, right? And that I’m dying to be interviewed on your show, right?  I’d be a terrific guest, really.  I’ll even bake brownies.). 

Jian interviewd Anna Jane Grossman, author of  Obsolete: An Encyclopedia of Once-Common Things Passing Us By.  Her focus (and she’s barely reached the tail end of her twenties) was items that have already become outdated within our lifetimes. Think eight-track tapes (and, bringing up a close second, video casettes); think cursive writing (and the poor profs who have to mark hand-written exams they can’t decipher); think corner phone booths (sorry, Superman, you’ll just have to stay on Krypton, because over here, you’re out of a change room); think  Mix Tapes (and the recurring pleasure you experience from seeing a friend’s handwriting on the song list–well, if you can decipher it); and, perhaps most alarming, think “looking old” (how about Melanie Griffith, Madonna, Mary Tyler Moore  or Mickey Rourke? They may not look old, but they don’t exactly look human, either).  In our culture, many inventions are superannuated even before some of us can learn to use them (yes, I admit, I still don’t text message).

Well, the recipe for this kugel (really a savory bread pudding) is old.  Really old.  And, frankly, I still adore it. It was my mom’s recipe, which she got from her mom, who got it from her mom. . . and so on. 

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This kugel doesn’t include any modern ingredients or preparation methods.  You won’t find wasabi paste, matcha green tea powder, or pink sea salt in this baby.  You won’t need a hand blender, food processor, or VitaMix to make it. It’s entirely an old-fashioned recipe.

Given my ancestors’ humble Russian beginnings, the ingredients are more reflective of what one might find in a cold-climate farm at the outset of autumn: root vegetables, bread, eggs (which I’ve omitted, of course).  And yet, even without flashy ingredients, even without any spiciness or too many seasonings (except fresh dill), this kugel is delicious and remains a long-standing favorite in my home.

The pudding is moist and flavorful, firm in the middle, with low-key flecks of grated carrot, chopped celery and yellow onion.  The exterior browns up to a crisp, bronzed crust (in fact, my sisters and I used to wait until Mom placed the platter of kugel on the table, hefty slices piled high, then all pounce at once to be the first to grab a corner piece, as those attained the greatest crust-to-filling ratio after baking). 

The dish is quick, easy, and comforting. Great for a holiday (such as the just-passed Rosh Hashanah or the upcoming Thanksgiving) or simply a quiet meal at home.  And unlike some other aspect of modern life, the final result will never go out of style.

Mum, don’t feel bad about that lack of whistles now that you’re. . . um. . . older.  I’m sure that if you walked around sans clothing like Elsie and I do, you’d get lots of attention, too.” 

My Mother’s Vegetable Bread Kugel

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A versatile dish that serves as a wonderful side dish, or can be wrapped and toted along for lunch the next day, eaten at room temperature.

3 Tbsp (45 ml) extra virgin olive oil, preferably organic

2 large carrots, grated

2 stalks celery, diced

1 large onion, diced

2 cloves garlic, minced

2 cups (480 ml) vegetable broth or stock, divided

1/3-1/2 cup (80-120 ml, to your taste) fresh dill, chopped

6-8 slices heavy, dense bread of choice, preferably a bit stale (I used a quinoa/millet loaf)

1 pkg (12 ounces or 375 g) Mori-Nu firm or extra firm silken tofu (or use regular silken tofu and decrease the broth by about 1/2 cup or 120 ml)

1/4 cup (60 ml) lightly toasted cashews, or cashew butter

2 Tbsp (30 ml) finely ground flax seeds

Pepper, to taste (add more salt if the broth wasn’t salty enough)

Preheat oven to 350F (180C).  Line an 8 x 8″ (20 cm) square pan with parchment, or spray with nonstick spray.

In a large, heavy frypan, heat the oil over medium heat.  Add the carrots, celery and onion and sauté until onion is translucent, 7-10 minutes.  Add the garlic and cook another minute.  Add 1 cup (240 ml) broth and the dill; cover and cook over low heat, stirring occasionally, until all the liquid is absorbed and the vegetables have taken on a golden sheen.

Meanwhile, either cut the bread into cubes or crumble in to a large bowl. Set aside.

In the bowl of a food processor, process the tofu, cashews, flax and remaining 1 cup (240 ml) broth, until very smooth and no traces of nuts are visible. 

Turn the tofu mixture, along with the cooked vegetable mixture, into the bowl and stir until everything is well combined and all the bread is coated with the mixture.  Smooth the top.

Bake in preheated oven for 30-45 minutes, turning once about halfway through, until edges are deep brown and crispy, and a tester inserted in the center comes out clean but moist.  Allow to cool for 10-15 minutes before cutting into squares.  Makes 9-12 servings. May be frozen.

Last Year at this Time: Pear and Parsnip Soup

© 2009 Diet, Dessert and Dogs

 

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Do Try This At Home: Pumpkin Bread Pudding with Warm Caramel Sauce

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A few of you asked for the Pumpkin Bread Pudding recipe about which I posted yesterday. Since I wasn’t entirely thrilled with the pumpkin bread on its own, and I was most assuredly dissatisfied with the sweetened condensed milk (the base for the caramel sauce) on its own, I hadn’t intended to post the recipe.

But you know what they say about the sum of individual parts. . . despite the haphazard way the dish came together, it ended up being a winner, so I’ll try to reconstruct the recipe here.  It was a huge hit and would make a spectacular New Year’s Eve dessert served in wine or martini glasses.

[BIG caveat:  I didn't take notes while making this, so you may have to play with proportions a bit, particularly with the caramel sauce. Results may vary.]

Pumpkin Bread Pudding with Warm Caramel Sauce (GF option)

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With pumpkin in both the bread and the “custard” in which it bakes, this pudding is definitely rich in pumpkin.  Lightly spiced, this moist bread pudding is highlighted with a rum-infused caramel sauce. 

For the Bread Pudding:

1 pre-baked pumpkin quick bread, such as the one in Simple Treats or this or this  (for GF) or this (not vegan) or this (I didn’t add raisins or nuts to mine, however)

1/4 cup (60 ml.) old-fashioned rolled oats (not quick or instant)

2  cups (480 ml.) vanilla rice , soy or almond milk

1/2 cup (120 ml.) packed pumpkin purée (not pie filling)

1 tsp. (5 ml.) pure vanilla extract

1/2 cup (120 ml.) agave nectar, light or dark

1 Tbsp. (15 ml.) organic cornstarch or arrowroot powder

1/8 tsp. fine sea salt

For the Caramel Sauce:

1 recipe of this condensed milk (I used agave instead of sugar and almond milk instead of soy)**

about 1/4 cup brown rice syrup

about 1/4 cup coconut oil

2-4 Tbsp. (30-60 ml.) rum, if desired

pinch fine sea salt

Preheat oven to 350 F (180 C).  Lightly grease a nonreactive (glass or ceramic) 9-inch (22.5 cm.) square pan or soufflé dish.

Slice the bread into thick slices, about 2 inches (5 cm.) thick.  Place on a cookie sheet and bake for about 10 minutes on each side to dry out the bread somewhat (alternately, if you’ve already got stale bread–great!).  Cool the bread and break it into bite-sized chunks; place in a large bowl.

In a blender, grind the oats until they are the consistency of a coarse meal.  Add the remaining ingredients and blend until smooth.  Pour the mixture over the bread in the bowl, pushing the bread down with the back of a spoon so that all pieces are submerged.  Allow to sit 20-30 minutes, pressing the bread back down occasionally, until the bread is completely soaked through (there may still be liquid left in the bottom of the bowl; this is fine).

When the bread is all soaked, spoon the mixture into the prepared pan, and smooth the top as best you can.  

Bake in preheated oven 40-50 minutes, until puffed and browned on top and a knife inserted in the centre comes out wet but clean.  Allow to cool at least 10 minutes before serving.  Serve warm with caramel sauce, at room temperature, or cold.  Makes 8-12 servings. 

Caramel Sauce:

Follow directions for sweetened condensed milk, cooking until the milk is reduced to 1 cup.  Add remaining ingredients and heat over medium-low heat until the mixture starts to bubble; then continue to cook for another 5-10 minutes until the sauce is thick and has darkened.  To test if it’s ready, pour about a teaspoon of the sauce into a small, chilled bowl.  If it thickens to the desired consistency, it’s ready; if it’s still too thin, cook and stir another 5-10 minutes.  Pour over warm pumpkin bread pudding.

**Note: I used the condensed milk as the base for caramel sauce because I’d already made it for another purpose, and wasn’t happy with the result for that recipe. . . so decided to turn it into caramel sauce.  Of course, you could just use ready-made sauce, or any other recipe for caramel sauce if you prefer.

Last year at this timeEncomium to the Soap Star Bloggers

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Family and Festive Feasting

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[Pumpkin Bread Pudding with Warm Caramel Sauce]

As I mentioned in a previous post, the CFO came to visit over the holidays, and we had a truly lovely time together, chillaxing (I can’t understand why that word has evaporated from the lexicon.  I mean, it just seems to capture so perfectly the concept its meant to convey), laughing, watching movies*, laughing, shopping, playing with The Girls, laughing, and eating far, far too much.  I’m happy to say that my sister also bonded with both of our furry babies, who have been wandering aimlessly around the house since she left this morning. 

(“Mum, what do you mean, ’she left’? Doesn’t she live with us now?  Where did she go? And, um, who will rub my belly tonight?”)

It does seem like ages since I’ve written on this blog, when in fact, it’s been just a few days. I’m just fascinated by the science fiction-like relative quality of time at the holidays: the space-time continuum stretches infinitely as you wait for the Big Day (or Days, depending on your belief system); then, like the Big Bang, it’s over in a flash.

Not to belabor the physics theme or anything, but I think my stomach has taken over the role of a black hole this holiday season.  Truly, I didn’t know it was possible that so much food could be sucked into that abyss in so short a span. Ah, if only time could stretch as infinitely as my appetite (and if only the waistband on my pants could do the same. . . ). 

Ah, what the heck, it’s the holidays. While the CFO was here , in effect, we enjoyed two major feast meals:  the first on Christmas Day, a semi-traditional repast that blended the Judeo-Christian cuisines; then, the following night, an Indian-themed feast, because we felt like it. 

Although neither my sister nor the HH is vegan (or even vegetarian), the bulk of the menu accommodated my dietary restrictions, so that we could all enjoy freely. And despite much good-natured ribbing in both directions (the CFO pooh-poohed almost every recipe I suggested on the grounds it was “too Veeee-gan”, while I countered by calling her a “rabid anti-Veegite“), it was the dish about which she was most skeptical, the wheat-free, egg-free, dairy-free pumpkin bread pudding, that turned out to be the star of the show. 

For the holiday meal, I relied on several tried-and-true recipes such as herb-roasted root vegetables, balsamic-dijon brussels sprouts and roast on the 25th, plus (in keeping with the Hannukah theme I started with those latkes the other day) an apple-noodle pudding (or kugel).  Even though this was a sweet kugel and more of what I’d consider a dessert, it did work well with the other dishes, offering a bit of luscious creaminess punctuated by tart cherries, along with the similar sweet-tart contrast in the brussels sprouts.  In fact, this noodle pudding would be perfect for breakfast, I’d venture.

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[Apple-Noodle Pudding with Tart Dried Cherries]

The bread pudding my sister so loved began with a pumpkin bread (recipe from Simple Treats), soaked in a pumpkin “custard” based on the mixture I used in my French Toast Soufflé.  I baked the puddings in individual ramekins, but you could easily do a single pudding in a loaf or square pan and scoop it from there. I topped the puddings with a homemade caramel sauce–a concoction based on a sweetened condensed milk experiment that went awry–that I’d kept warm. 

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[A bite of pumpkiny-caramelly bliss.]

The result was spectacular–warm, slightly crisp on the outside but moist and spongy on the inside, über-pumpkiny, slightly spiced, and with the smooth, glossy thickness of warm caramel blanketing the whole affair. This is a chic, stylish dessert, yet one that was really simple in its preparation.

We certainly didn’t need any additional desserts after that finale, but since I had loads of tester recipes in the house that I’d recently done up for the cookbook, I put out a tray with Glazed Almond Bars, Dalmatian Cheesecake Brownies and Hazelnut Mocha Cookies; as well as leftover Marzipan-Topped Shortbread, Tutti Fruiti Christmas Cookies, and Chocolate Macaroons.  All were CFO-approved, I’m happy to say.

The next night, though still full from the Christmas dinner, we managed an incredible follow-up with an Indian feast that, we decided, will go down in the annals of Most Memorable Meals in the DDD household. 

The menu included a lentil dal recipe I first saw about a week ago on Lisa’s blog; peas in a creamy sauce (adapted from a recipe I once borrowed from Gemini I); an aloo saag (well, not really–I just don’t know the word for “kale”) that combined potatoes and shredded kale in a spicy tomato sauce; coconut brown basmati rice; and homemade chickpea pancakes from Meena Pathak’s Indian Cooking for Family and Friends.  I can tell you, there was a symphony of lip-smacking, lentil scooping, potato spooning, and sauce sopping going on, as well as a mellifluous refrain of friendly chatter and wine-glass clinking that evening.  Very chillaxing.

I promise to share the goodies from our Indian feast in a future post, but rather than inundate you with so many recipes at once, I thought I’d start off with the lovely Apple Noodle Pudding with Tart Dried Cherries.  This alone would make a great light mid-week  supper–and I, for one, could certainly use some lighter meals these days.

Also:  I’m a little late jumping on this bandwagon, but wanted to mention a charity drive put on by Katie over at Chocolate Covered Vegan.  In honor of the season, Katie is offering to donate 20 cents to the Enough Project (an organization that works to counter crimes against humanity) for every comment she receives on this post.  How sweet is that? It’s incredibly easy to help out this way–just hop on over and leave a comment!

 *Christmas Day:  that classic chestnut, White ChristmasThe CFO and I, while sisters ourselves, bear no resemblance to either Rosemary Clooney or Vera-Ellen (well, perhaps my wrist bears a resemblance to Vera-Ellen’s waist).

Boxing Day:  taking advantage of the nearly-empty theaters, Seven Pounds. What I learned from watching this movie:  1) Will Smith is (still) preternaturally gorgeous;  2) Will Smith is an extraordinarily talented actor; 3) that is one whacked reason to keep a jellfish as a pet.

Yesterday: The Dark Knight. I agree that Heath Ledger deserved an Oscar for his performance.  Not only that, but also a Nobel Prize in Chemistry for being able to unravel the convoluted structure of the multi-pronged plot in this movie.  (Okay, perhaps a not-entirely fair assessment on my part, as I couldn’t bring myself to watch the violent scenes.  Which means I missed about 94% of the movie.)

Apple Noodle Pudding with Tart Dried Cherries

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Unfortunately, I can’t recall the original source of this recipe, which I copied from a magazine several years ago in the BB (Before Blog) era of my life.  Nevertheless, I’ve added several elements and changed others over the years, so I consider this my own variation on the original.

4 ounces (about 120 grams) long noodles (fettucine, linguine, spaghetti, etc.–I use kamut linguine; for a GF option, use gluten-free noodles)

1 large or 2 small tart apples (such as Granny Smith) washed, cored and grated fine (you can leave the skin on)

1/3 cup (80 ml.) dried tart cherries, cranberries, or raisins

1/3 cup (80 ml.) natural raw almonds

1/4 cup (60 ml.) natural raw cashews

1 pkg. (about 12 ounces or 375 g.) aseptically-packaged, firm silken tofu (I use Mori-Nu)

1/4 cup (60 ml.) agave nectar, light or dark

2 tsp. (10 ml.) cinnamon

1/2 tsp. (2.5 ml.) ground ginger

pinch cardamom

1/8 tsp. (.5 ml.) fine sea salt

1/2 tsp. (2.5 ml.) pure almond extract

1 tsp. (5 ml.) pure vanilla extract

Preheat oven to 350F (180C).  Line a 9 inch (22.5 cm.) square pan with parchment, or spray with nonstick spray.

In a large pot, boil the noodles according to package directions and drain.  Place the drained noodles in a large bowl and toss with the grated apple, cherries, and pecans.

In the bowl of a food processor, blend the almonds and cashews until they resemble a fine meal (take care not to over-blend, however, or you’ll end up with nut butter).  Add the tofu, agave, cinnamon, ginger, cardamon, salt, almond extract and vanilla and process gain until the mixture is smooth.

Pour the tofu mixture over the noodle mixture in the bowl and stir well to blend and distribute the tofu mixture throughout. Pour into the prepared pan and spread evenly, smoothing the top.

Bake in preheated oven about 50 minutes, rotating once about halfway through, until golden brown on top.  Serve warm or at room temperature. Makes four brunch servings or 9 dessert servings. May be frozen. 

Last Year at this TimeBrussels Sprouts Even My Honey Will Eat

© 2008 Diet, Dessert and Dogs

 

 

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